Secrets and a Tropical Escape...
So the secret is out, not that it was a BIG secret or even a secret at all. But yes, Sara at Corn Smut and I know each other. We are both in the same graduate program, both working on our Ph.D.s and writing (or should I say attempting to write) our dissertations. There is a certain level of camaraderie that develops in this process. But I digress...

I am here today to tell you about the trip to Puerto Rico.

The timing for the trip could not have been better. I finished a chapter, I was starting to feel better after several weeks of the unknown malaise (headache and dizziness), and autumn was in full swing (and little did I know that winter was soon to replace it). The only difficult part of the trip was boarding our dog for the days we were to be away. The place we board him is nice and the people really like him (our dog has copious amounts of charisma), so we know he is in good hands. Still it is not easy. Yet again I am off on a tangent.

Puerto Rico.

The purpose of the trip was for a Ford Fellows Conference. Last year I received a Ford Fellowship to write my dissertation. Other than being a generous grant, one of the perks of the grant is that they have a conference every year where all the fellows meet (there are also pre-doctoral and post-doctoral grants). The Ford Foundation pays all expenses to the conference for the year you have the grant and the next two years. So I was pretty excited when I found out this year's conference was going to be in San Juan.

The conference is nice and useful. There are sessions that give you insight and advice to help you get through the stage of your academic career that you are currently in. There are also one-on-one counseling sessions. It is also just a good opportunity to meet other scholars and learn about their research.

The conference was at the Caribe Hilton, which is a lovely hotel. I would say it is a little overpriced (we paid to stay an extra day), but we enjoyed our stay. It has a beautiful location right next to the sea, with a nice sandy beach carved out of the rocky shore. One of my favorite things is that they have a jetty that you can walk out on and look down on a small reef teeming with colorful tropical fish. There is also a little fortress that juts out to sea right next to the hotel that reminds you that not only are you in a tropical paradise, but a place of significant historical importance as well.

Old San Juan is charming. While roaming the streets, you feel like you are in a little town somewhere and not in a bustling city. The color of the houses, crowded with flowering balconies is so cheerful. You can't help but smile. Ok, the smiles may be a result of the wonderful tropical rum drinks (the Piña Coladas were amazing), but being in such a lovely place also helps.

The huge El Morro fortress is awe inspiring. We spent a few hours exploring all the passages and admiring all the different vistas of Old San Juan, San Juan harbor, the mountains in the distance, and the multiple shades of blue of the ocean. The small museum inside the fort was fascinating and the air conditioning was a welcome relief from the hot humid air. Although I must say the strong breezes off the ocean do a pretty good job at making the heat there tolerable.

Do I need to say that we ate very, very well? Puerto Rican food is rich and tasty. I loved the many ways they use plantains in their cooking. I am also a fruit lover, so I was quite taken by the multiple fruit shakes I had. And the coffee...ahhhh ... the coffee! Puerto Rican coffee is rich and flavorful, but not overpowering. Whether you have it with steamed milk or black, it is delicious. We had to make a stop at the grocery store to stock up on coffee and rum (I have a nice bottle of aged Bacardi for Lux's next happy hour). If you are ever in San Juan, go to Bebo's Cafe on Loiza Street. It is definitely where the locals go and for good reason.

The wife and I also had a romantic dinner one evening at a fancy tapas restaurant. [Side note: I find it fascinating how what is essentially pub food in Spain has become a trendy and even elegant food choice in the Americas]. It was fun to have Spanish food after seeing the legacy of the Spanish presence on the island.

We also spent time lounging on the beach and swimming in the very warm sea. Even one evening when there was a passing tropical shower, we headed into the ocean to swim around. It was lovely. I love the water of the tropics, so clear, warm, and inviting. I also collected a vial of sand to start working on my collection again.

Needless to say we loved Puerto Rico. I now understand why my Puerto Rican friends are so proud of their *country* (the status of the island is a strange one, part of the US, yet with a distinctive national identity). All the people we met and encountered were friendly and kind. We definitely will be going back. We really would like to explore the rest of the island, especially the Yunque rainforests and some of the more isolated beaches. Hopefully that will be sooner than later.

And to follow up on the wonderful tropical escape, next month we are off to Chicago. Oh yeah, Chicago in November, tropical it won't be. It could be worse; it could be Chicago in February. We'll have fun, I am sure.